Wednesday, 10 April 2019

An alternative way to draft a sewing pattern-the Lutterloh system


Some time ago I bought a Lutterloh system of Pattern Making (1) on the recommendation of a friend I really respect. I then joined the facebook page Lutterloh system and the posts are both inspiring and helpful. 



From the fb page it was recommended  that I get a waistcoat pattern from Lutterloch and that by making this I would be able to see how the patterns would work for me. 



I have now drawn out my pattern from the scale waistcoat pattern.  pattern. I used some lining  paper I had. I thought the pattern looked far too big for me but carried on. 




I used some fairly thick old curtain fabric for  this as I thought the weight would be good. The fabric had ‘structure’. 

I didn’t bother to match the pieces, match the thread or line it. 

Image completed pattern 

I was amazed and pleasantly surprised at how well it fitted. This is a poor photo but I hope shows the good fit. 

The trial garment on my body duplicate 


The idea is that you use your bust measurement for pattern measurements above the waist and hip measurement for the measurements below the waist when you are drawing out the pattern. 

I only made a couple of modifications at the fitting stage:

On the front I joined up the top shoulder dart and diamond waist dart together to shape it more closely over the bust and took in the bottom side seams which flared out too much above the hips. 

I have quite a curved back at the shoulders and the pattern somehow coped with that, even though the fabric had no stretch in it and the armholes don’t bulge out at the back as I was expecting. 

The set I bought has 280 patterns in it, so I feel motivated to try a pattern for real now. The real challenge is which one as there are so many that are great shapes. 

Notes

1. The Luterloch system was developed in 1935. It is based on the ‘Golden Rule’, ie that the human body is in perfect         mathematical proportion within itself.  4 pattern supplements are available each year. 





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