Red coat part 6: The all important finishing off.

The waist of the lining is now attached to the waist of the coat. I insert vertical pins and work from the outsides, ie centre front into the centre back allowing extra fabric so the lining is not tight in the coat. 

skirt lining being inserted at waist

 

Then I insert the sleeve heads into the top of the sleeve, stitching loosely and by hand the fold of the sleeve heads into to the inside (sleeve side ) of the armhole, in a  ratio of 3.5 to front and 5 to back of the sleeve seam, as recommended by Claire Shaeffer. The longest depth goes next to the fabric of the sleeve. 

Apologies I did not take a picture of this. 

Once these are in the lining of the sleeve is turned over into the bodice and again loosely hand stitched to the armhole seam, or in the area of this. I do not put the stitches through the armhole seam stitches. 

Stitching the lining round the armhole 

Once the  lining is attached at the waist I like to wait a day or so with the coat on the body duplicate to let everything hang! 

 The next job is to stitch labels in, to be as neat as possible

labels in coat 

Coat hem or buttons next? I mark where the buttons are to go and pin the loops there when trying the coat on for length. 

I am in the fortunate position, as I have used the pattern before of knowing where the hem line should be, making this distance the same as the previous coat! This is a good starting point snd I tack round with a double length of contrasting thread. 

My husband then checks this by sight and  with a ruler measuring  up from the floor. The hem is then pinned up and once we have agreed the length all round, I can finish the hem. I measure from the hem, to the top of the hem of the coat and then overlock this edge. Super care needed due to the blade in use on the overlocker! Then I blind hand stitch the hem in place, using a very loose thread and hardly marking the outer side. 

This shows part of adjusting the bulk  at the front bottom edges of the coat

Next I mark the line, with double thread tacking , where the lining will be attached, in this case 2 cm up from the fold. 

Sums needed and measuring to allow the lining to be long enough to ‘bag over’ this line but not show below the coat. The lining is then overcast along the edge. 

Lots of pressing needed here, using the ‘wet  hankie and clapper’ on the coat and also making a sharp fold for the lining. 

This is where the small fold is used at the edge of the lining and the lining is hand stitched to the 2 cm line. 

Bottom of the coat showing slight excess of lining to allow good movement in wear, the slight fold over at the bottom also hides the stitching line.

Buttons are attached and I always add stabilising small buttons to the back

Back of buttons

All done! 

Coat showing the lining 

I hope these posts have encouraged you to have a go at making a coat, it is well worth it for many reasons, not least because you will have a coat of quality material, it will fit you and you will not meet anyone wearing the same. 

Allow plenty of time and split up the stages. Do contact me if you need clarification of any of the stages.